Day 20

Ullapool is a lovely town, with a deep harbour in Loch Broom, surrounded by mountains. I was off on the wrong road by 7.25 and off on the right road by 7.30. I noticed something strange as I stepped out of the hostel - it was warm. So for the first time in many days I set off in my shorts. There was a slow climb up the mountains and it was nice to be amongst trees - after the endless bog of Lewis. After the climb there was a long downhill ride which went on for mile after mile past lochs, reservoirs, rivers and waterfalls. It was a lovely ride until 30km from Inverness when the road became very busy. I reached the Beauly Firth by 2.00 - 6 hours 30 minutes. Which is a world cycling record for this particular Coast to Coast crossing of Scotland by anyone over the age of 59, from Fordingbridge with a middle name of Ernest. There is a nice bridge with a cycle lane across the Firth which brings you into Inverness. I went straight to the Railway Station to check everything was OK with the ticket I had booked by phone. The very helpful ticket clerk, who no doubt I should correctly refer to as a Sales/Information Public Liaison Operative, said "Yes," they did have my ticket. Then added, "but there's a wee problem, I took one look at you and the word 'Bike' flashed through my mind."

"Uncanny, how could you tell?" I asked, putting my cycle helmet on the counter and scratching my lycra covered bum. "Oh, it would be the years of experience Sir. But the thing is, it says nothing about a 'bike' here."

"Is there not room on the train then?" I asked beginning to panic. "Ah, yes but if it were August it would be a different story." So he gave me my ticket and a slip of paper which said 'Bike' on it and told me how to get the bike on the train in the morning. This Hostel is the largest I have ever stayed in but it is clean and tidy and a cheap place to stay. So I have eaten and am drinking the wine that I carried in my spare water bottle over the mountains - I think it has actually improved. Perhaps someone else could test this - 'Blossom Hill - Cabinet Sauvigon (Email Val for the correct spelling) 97km to an altitude of 292m. 97 km Tomorrow "Kings Cross to Waterloo - the hard way" Bye, Graham